ADDING THE ELASTIC:
Ok its time to give these a fitted leg.
4.b, (H-FLP step) place the flannel-fleece layer under the all cotton layer. Pun together at core only.
5. • open up one side along the core. (H-FLP'S: On all cotton layer)
LET'S START SEWING :
2. (If sewing H-FLP set aside the fleece-flannel layer for now).
•Sew threw all layers of fabric along the sides of the core. I like a diamond stitch but zigzag is good also.
PART 1: THE INTRO:
I'm doing this blog post in parts because my phone doesn't handle posts with many pictures very well.
Also I'm calling my prefolds "fitted leg prefolds" (FLP's) now because using the term "hybrid" confused people.
However that confusion got me thinking: is a hybrid prefold possible? And after much thought I think it might be. I'll call it a "hybrid fitted leg prefold" (H-FLP's). It will however mean the diaper can only be folded in Angel fold and Jelly roll fold (with or without poop catchers). Again I don't see this as an issue personally since I only use these two folds anyway and having the fitted legs already creates these fold restrictions.
Will I create other prefolds crossed with other modern diaper styles? I don't think so (but who knows). Doing the hybrid option means using a synthetic. I'm semi ok with using polar fleece (windpro is a great brand of this) since it washes well and prefolds traditionally are not to thick and the combination of number of layers, cotton (or hemp) and their open design means they wash well. I will be testing these out to see how well they wash as I believe this is an important aspect of a diapers functionality. Again, ammonia should never be a common occurrence. It should be a one time accident while learning proper wash routine. I will make a post on my thoughts on this and initial reaction and later a long time use post.
Cut & Prep.
FLP: •Cut 2 flannel outer pieces. 14X18 in (width x hieght). Birdseye or muslin are also good fabric choices. Some people may wish to use 3 or 4 outer layers. I don't recommend more then that and I find 2 is sufficient.
*if making the H-FLP stick to 2 outer layers.
•Cut 2 core layers 5X15 I have one cotton batting and one flannel. Again Birdseye and muslin are also suitable, as is cotton Sherpa, and cotton or hemp Terry's. 4 layers is also an option but I don't recommend more, and I find 2 is sufficient.
• Cut two lengths braided elastic 4.3 in inches.
•Cut 2 lengths of Velcro (hook side) 2 inches and 1 (loop side) also 2 inches
• Cut 1 length of Velcro (loop side) 5.4 inches
•Cut 2 lengths of Velcro (hook side) 1 inch for laundry tabs.
* Velcro is optional if you prefer to use snappies or boingos you won't need Velcro.
So today I bravely threw 3 of my wool diaper wraps in the washing machine (top loader at laundry mat) and they came out perfect. Then I lanolized and hung to dry. I have been hand washing the covers due to fear that I would shrink my wool wraps. I am so thrilled to know they do machine wash. :) I hand wash my diapers through the week and machine wash every 7-10 days for the past 2 months with great results (as in no ammonia aka stink). I'm a happy Cloth mom. I haven't successfully sold any wraps or covers and only one diaper which is disheartening but perhaps knowing I can machine wash my wraps will help change that.
The following is an opinion piece on fabrics in diapers. I feel an opinion piece is valid as I have been sewing since I was 3 and am now 39. Also I am currently cloth diapering my 6th child over the past 18 years. Understanding fabric choices is important. One thing all good seamstresses know is that the best seamstress with the best pattern won't make a good item without the right choice of materials.
CLASSIC COTTON FOR DIAPERS: diapers used to be all cotton, usually flannel or Birdseye. There is even diaper flannel. Cotton is a natural fabric and washes and dries well. I rate it 10/10 on a scale of 1(poor) to 10 (excellent) on how well it washes. If stained it suns well (hanging in the sun to get out stains) . It is absorbent and has stood the test of time when it comes to diapers. This is a healthy, clean and reliable choice for cloth diapers. You can use other cottons too such as t-shirts (not very absorbent) or old sweatshirts. You can also use cotton batting in the core of a diaper so long as you quilt it. You can use FST'S (flour sack towels) and cotton Terry (old towels), both are very absorbent. Softer French Terry (still absorbent because the shape of the fibers draws wetness in and distributes it). Burly Knit Terry (bkt) is a Terry with extra long thick loops. Its super absorbent but very thick so best used as an insert rather then through a whole diaper.
HEMP: Everything I've said for cotton goes for hemp; just double the absorbent factor, unfortunately the cost is also higher. Its a wonderful addition to the natural fabric options for diapers. For wash rating I give it 10/10
BAMBOO (rayon): If you can find it in hemp you can find it in bamboo rayon. Like Hemp it is very absorbent. The difference is bamboo is chemically processed into rayon and is not a natural fabric. If you see it listed as such (except for bamboo linens which aren't used in diapers) you should report it. Zorb I & II are also bamboo rayon . Zorb is very absorbent! However it doesn't always hold everything it absorbs. Its texture and construction are much like batting, but thicker. Charcoal Bamboo is popular but it is exactly what it says, bamboo (rayon) with actual charcoal in it. It washes great for a synthetic and I'll give it 8/10. If you want to read more about the truth behind bamboo check out this news article here. You can also read my post titled "the heartbreaking truth about bamboo".
MICROFIBER: Its generally used to make inserts to stuff pocket diapers. It cannot be used against babies skin as it will suck the moisture out of your babies skin. As an insert it will be effective in the diaper. What you should know is that microfiber was created by the cleaning industry to trap dirt and germs. It does this effectively. The downside is it's very effective which makes it difficult to clean. It is more prone to ammonia issues then any other fabric choice. The trapping germs part (personally) worries me about its use in diapers. I'll rate it 1/10 on its ability to wash clean
FLEECE: There are a variety of fleeces and they do not all do the same thing. Some wick, absorb and some are water resistant. Fleece is polyester (chemically made). It can be made with bamboo but it is not organic despite the title organic bamboo fleece (OBF), this is because bamboo is creatrd through a cellulose process. Cotton or hemp fleece that isn't poly blend is for absorbtion. Polar fleece and Windpro (which is a polar fleece) are water resistent. They are used on the outside of diapers or as diaper covers. They can suffer compression leaks. They are soft and let air circulate.
Microfleece is a moisture wicking fleece. It is used on the inside of a diaper to create a soft feel dry layer. Fleece washes well enough. They rank in the middle wash wise in that they won't wash as well as cotton but better then mocrofiber. I'll rate it 7/10 on washing clean.
VELOUR AND SUEDE CLOTH: Velour is uses on the inside of a diaper for a feel dry layer. The kind used for diapers is polyester backed. Without the poly backing it will wear out quickly. Velour is cotton, organic cotton and bamboo cotton. OBV stands for organic bamboo Velour but is not organic. Suedecloth works and is used like the velour. It resists staining. But its not as soft. They does not wash well and is prone to ammonia. I'll rate it 3/10 for ability to wash clean.
MINKY: This is also polyester. t is super soft and moderately absorbent. It might be used on the inside or outside of a cloth diaper. It's popularity is based on its amazing feel and look. wash wise I rank it 5/10.
PUL: This is Polyurethane. It is used as a diaper cover, outside of AIO's or inside as a hidden waterproof layer and same on pocket diapers. It is waterproof. It needs a different wash routine as a cover then a regular diaper. However since it might be sewn as part if the diaper the whole diaper then requires a different wash routine. A cheap PUL will delaminate. Over time PUL will wear out especially when not used as a seperate cover. It can make the inside of a diaper humid against babies skin. It does wash clean though. Wash wise (clean speaking) I give it a 9/10.
TAFFETA: I have never sewn a taffeta cover but I have used one by Kushies. Its waterproof but unlike PUL it breathes. It is also thinner then PUL and longer lasting. It has no stretch to it though so it's not good as an os (one size fits all). Im not sire why its not more popular and not available as a diaper fabric. It is a synthetic fabric but also washes well and I give it a 9/10.
WOOL: This is the hero of the diaper cover world. It is used as a seperate cover. It sounds complicated to wash but it isn't (check out my posts on wool). It Breathes, its natural, its water repellent, it's natures raincoat. I have no leaks with wool at all, not even overnight. If your having leak issues this is my recommendation hands down. It is pricey but you can use upcycled wool which is cheap. Wash wise I rank it 10/10.
I like my wool wraps best cuz they are easy to use at diaper changes. But they aren't as cute as my diapers. I've been told I can't cover wool in flannel or applique in non wool due to compression leaks. And I know this is true....or is it? the other material will end up lanolized and I dont get compression leaks from his clothes (and onsies for pretty snug over the covers)....so I think I want to experiment and test out just one. If I have success then I'm doing more. So wish me luck cuz they would be all oh so cute.
Like my oldest, baby moss is a heavy wetter. And my mama moss diapers hold up. Like his oldest sister though he needs a diaper cover full time. That's a little sad cuz it covers the super cute cloth. however I am very happy with the wool. I made wool covers in a wrap style and for myself I made some pull on ones out of upcycled sweaters. Cuteness-wise I like the sweater ones. Function-wise the wrap ones are so much easier to change.
